A Dream I didn't know I had - Harriet Millson
Not enough people consider spending their holidays in Madagascar. Which makes this a rather special destination for just that reason!
Even fewer travellers think of chartering a boat to do so.
But, after one such holiday, we never looked back!
Travel back in time to 2007.
We were on a mission to find a holiday for our family and friends that combined a bit of adventure, white beaches, some sort of luxury, no cooking or housework for Mum, fishing for Dad, and plenty to do for the kids.
We had been tempted by all the “Special Deals” in Mauritius, Zanzibar and the Seychelles but wanted something different and away from the madding crowds.
We ‘stumbled’ across Madagascar and, with another couple and their youngest we put together a plan that was to change our lives forever.
Nosy Be is (sort of) off the top left-hand corner of Madagascar. It is the largest of the many small islands off the coast of the “mainland” and is often referred to as the Perfume Island - mainly because of the Ylang Ylang industry which provides France with the bulk of the heady scented base oil used for many perfumes.
After an arduous journey via the capital, and an unreliable domestic flight, we were met at Nosy Be airport by a friendly, smiling Malagasy who drove us (on the wrong side of the road) to Madirokely Beach.
Sleeping up to eight people in four double cabins (two with en-suite freshwater showers), Yacht Gecko was perfectly suited for cruising the waters of this Indian Ocean paradise. Two hulls keep her stable, so sea sickness is limited to only the very susceptible. She has a spacious deck at the front, a dive deck and further seating at the helm.
We spent the next seven days happily cruising to islands and sheltered bays, snorkelling in coral gardens with fish that I thought only existed in Finding Nemo or The Little Mermaid!
The men were kept happy with the regular sound of the running ratchet on the rods – catching Kingfish and Mackerel mostly (the Sail Fish got away!).
It just got better and better.
Each night we were anchored in a different place – always safe and sheltered where we enjoyed peace, quiet, calm water and chilled sundowners on deck – another night, another island.
We visited Lokobe National Park from the wrong side – this meant avoiding the touristy ‘main entrance’ to the park. We got to the beach on the fringe of the forest with our motorised dingy and were met by a delightful and knowledgeable guide. In just an hour we were introduced to some of the incredible animals that Madagascar is known for.
Aside from lemurs there were Leaf Tailed Geckos, Snubnosed snakes, and boas. (No venomous snake in Madagascar.)
The smallest and the largest of chameleons and a forest full of noises.
Birds, crickets and frogs joined the chorus wishing us farewell as we made our way back to the beach and the ice cold THB beers on board our boat.
Other islands, bays and villages on a typical charter include Russian Bay, Nosy Iranja and Barahamamy,
The Fifth Brother or Sugar Loaf, Nosy Ankazoberavina, Nosy Antsoha, Antanimora, Nosy Ofy, Kalakajora, Nosy Lava and Nosy Saba to the South or Nosy Fanihy, Tsarabanjina, Grand Mitsio, Organ Pipes, Four Brothers, Nosy Anakea and Cap St Sebastian in the north. All exotic names that were to become a part of our daily vocabulary.
A typical day was spent snorkelling different reefs, walking on empty islands and beaches, endless fishing, kayaking over crystal clear water, enjoying superb meals prepared by the chef and icy cold drinks and cocktails.
The girls needed a little retail therapy so a visit to Nosy Komba was called for. Here our senses were flooded with laughing children, vivid colours and the aroma of cooking fires and fresh vanilla. But the greatest attraction on this island were the lemurs. These soft, furry creatures are tame enough to sit on your shoulder (bribed with a banana) and will guzzle away in your ear, giving gentle grunts of gratitude. An experience everyone should have at least once in a lifetime and, I believe, one that etched Madagascar into my heart.
There was another one. A friendship that started on this, my first of hundreds of trips to Madagascar and that developed into one of the greatest relationships of my life.
Albert.
Albert was the deckhand on our first charter. His open smile, wicked sense of humour and ability to tell tales of his life and country were just some of the traits that led me into what was to become the love affair of my life.
Madagascar.
This short, 7-night holiday was the seed that bore a dream I didn’t know I had. And that was to become MadagasCaT Charters & Travel.
In 2008, we bought Yacht Gecko and sent her to Nosy Be where she soon became the most popular South African owned Cat in Madagascar.
With Albert as our skipper, we embarked on what became a 15-year journey as destination specialists.
This journey has taken me to all corners of this unique land.
It has introduced me to ambassadors, adventurers, and famous people.
It led to our association with Airlink – when we partnered with the airline to reintroduce the direct flight from Johannesburg to Nosy Be. A life saving route for many lodges and businesses on the island.
Our boats and our business have been featured in many well-known magazines (including this one), even forever being inscribed in whole chapters of books.
And remarkably, considering I barely knew where Madagascar was in 2007, we have become the ‘go to’ travel agent for anyone wishing to explore any of the many, many unusual and incredible destinations on offer there.
Dreams can come true – even when you didn’t know you had them!
Madagascar! Not just a destination but a life changing experience.
In memory of Albert – RIP my friend. You are missed.
